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For people who care

 

Why should your customer buy a skincare product at all? Why not save the money?

No one should buy a product, especially skincare, unless it offers clear benefits. Therefore, it is important to ask of any skincare product what effects and benefits it offers. What does it do?

Quality skincare products keep the skin in good shape, healthy and beautiful. They improve the skin and its appearance, reducing as much as possible the visible signs of aging. Good skincare products do this by cleaning, protecting, nourishing, hydrating, vitalizing and improving the skin.

These are the basic criteria.
What you need to know is how to achieve this in the best possible way. You will only be able to determine this if you have some basic knowledge about the functioning of the skin (what it needs), and some basic knowledge about what cosmetic ingredients can do (how they can satisfy the skin’s needs).

 

The story of the skin

 

It is important to keep in mind that in general, our bodies are perfectly capable of caring for themselves. All we need to do is keep them in balance and good shape by breathing, moving, protecting them, keeping them warm and providing them with the right nutrition and hydration. If we do all this, our healthy bodies will have healthy organs and we will feel good. The skin is in fact the body’s largest organ. Therefore, if the body is in perfect shape and functions well, the skin will also generally function well and take care of itself. 

How does
the body/skin do this? Well, very simply and naturally, by producing its own skincare! Yes, the body and skin are in fact a cosmetic factory that produces everything necessary for perfect skincare! This is why, when our bodies and skin are functioning well, we feel no need for cosmetic products – we already have them for free.

Our skin receives all the 'ingredients' it needs from what we eat and drink, and/or it produces (or synthesizes) any other necessary substances by means of different metabolic processes in our bodies and skin. The protective barrier of our skin comprises mainly the different skin layers in which our skin cells live and finally die to form the most important protective outer skin layer: the stratum corneum or horny layer. This layer is what is visible, and a healthy stratum corneum will feel soft and well hydrated and have a healthy appearance.

On top of the
stratum corneum is the hydrolipid layer which is in fact our bodies' own natural skincare cream. It softens, nourishes and protects our skin in the most natural way. It is the natural -- more or less oily -- substance that you feel on your skin even if you haven't put on a cream. It has been there since you were growing in your mothers womb, in order to protect you from drying out. It has been with you during your childhood and youth, and it is -- together with a well hydrated stratum corneum -- the main reason why you didn't get wrinkles at an early age. But wrinkles will appear on the skin’s surface when the stratum corneum is not well hydrated and when the hydrolipid layer is not complete. These wrinkles can be reduced if good hydration and nourishing/protection with the right substances is provided externally.
 

Th
ese 'right substances' are well known. It is important to name them here. From our nutrition our skin receives the necessary vitamins and essential polyunsaturated fatty acids. Essential means here that our skin is not able to produce them, and that it is thus essential to get them from an external source like food or skincare. This is also the reason that they are sometimes called vitamin F. The skin cells produce other necessary lipids, such as phospholipids and ceramids, that therefore do not need to be provided by nutrition. These are therefore called non-essential fatty acids -- although they are essential to the skin. Finally, drinking enough water will provide hydration.

The
se substances are also important components of the hydrolipid layer or Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) on top of your skin. However, the main source of this protective and nourishing layer comes from two other sources: the uncountable number of sebum glands and sweat glands that are an essential part of the body’s skincare factory.

 

All creams are formed by combining two main types of substances: water-soluble and fat-soluble. A good balance between these two types of components make that a cream is no too oily and not too fluid. Every cosmetics factory in the world mixes these two types of components in some way. In doing so, they do what your own skincare factory has done every day since the very early days of your existence. Sadly, this doesn't necessarily mean that the factories combine the right ingredients, as we will see presently.


The sebaceous glands produce and deliver sebaceous lipids in the form of sebum to the to the NMF. These
sebaceous lipids include triglycerides, waxes, cholesterol, and
squalene. The sweat glands provide and deliver water soluble substances like urea, lactates, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid and allantoin to the NMF. The living skin cells in the epidermis add epidermal lipids to the NMF.

It is important to see that all these substances
, provided by nutrition, drinking, cell activity, sebum and sweat glands, play a crucial role in a healthy skin and a healthy stratum corneum. A lack of even one of them can cause severe skin problems and thus premature aging. Good food, as well as good skincare, will provide all the necessary substances. Not providing one or more of these necessary components will have negative consequences, even if these are not immediately felt, because the skin will not receive what it needs to stay in good shape. It is the same with food. Only after a prolonged lack of essential nutritional components such as vitamins does the body become sick. A shortage of vitamins leads to a broad range of severe health problems. A shortage of vitamins, urea or ceramids in the skin will similarly lead to skin disorders or pathological dry skin, to name just a few examples. Therefore, the only good skincare is complete skincare.

Most
of the skincare products that are available are very far from being complete. Dr. Baumann's Exclusive Bionome Skincare offers a range of  complete products that provide everything that your and your customers’ skin might need. 

When is skincare needed?

There are basically four
reasons for using skincare: skin aging, skin hygiene, skin optimization, and finally skin disorders and imbalances.

 

Skin aging. Young people tend not to think of using creams, because their skin provides everything in quantities that give full satisfaction. As we age, however, the situation changes, because the natural self-sustaining capacities of our skin gradually diminish. Regrettably, the body’s skincare factory gradually loses production capacity day by day. This process of aging causes deficiencies that make help from outside useful. This issue especially concerns women, which is why they are the main consumers of skincare products. The average age at which the need for assistance becomes very clear is around 30-35 for women. Men are normally not as concerned by these changes.


The reason for this difference is that the main lipid (oil) part of the skin's hydrolipid layer is provided by the sebum produced in the sebum glands. This sebum production is controlled by particular sex hormones. When women grow older, those hormones gradually reduce their activity to prepare the body for its non-fertile life. This process
reduces sebum production, with the result being dry skin (lipid shortage). Men stay fertile until they are much older, which is why their sebum production also remains active. Aging leads to dry skin, and creams for normal to dry skin with a higher lipid concentration are most effective in this situation.


Skin hygiene. If
we lived as our ancestors did, we probably would not care too much about how we smelled. If everybody smells bad, no one needs to worry about it! In our modern society, however, we do care about hygiene. And this has consequences for the skin. The hydrolipid layer on our skin not only nourishes and protects the skin, but it also absorbs sweat and dirt. Of course, one could use strong perfumes to hide the smell this causes, but these days we prefer to simply wash. When we wash ourselves, what we are really doing is removing dirty natural skincare from our faces and bodies.


If the cleansing is done well, it normally causes the feeling of dry skin, because the hydrolipid layer has been removed.
Waiting for an hour or two gives the body’s skincare factory time to produce it again. So there is no need to worry. However, using a light cream for oily skin will bridge the time between the cleaning and the reappearance of the natural hydrolipid layer. Using a rich cream for dry skin will probably be too much in such a situation. As a general rule any cream should just complement what the user’s body naturally produces.

Skin optimization. Until now we have
examined the possibilities that our skin already offers in providing a lot of what we need. This might give the impression that this is a perfect process. Earlier, we stated that: " if the body is in perfect shape and functions well, the skin will also generally function well and take care of itself." Regrettably, this is not always the case. Our bodies and skin are not always perfect. The skin does as much as it can, but all studies show that the human body and skin are good but in many ways also imperfect systems, which can be improved. Vitamins, liposomes and other essential substances can be provided to the skin to guarantee important improvements in protection, nourishing and hydration.

Skin disorders and imbalances
. Sometimes
our skin already needs help when we are young, but generally this is only the case in imbalances or illnesses, which often have genetic origins. This is a very complicated subject for which a deeper knowledge of dermatology and genetics is useful, and which is too broad to explain here. For skin disorders such as acne, psoriasis or eczema, a treatment can be very useful. Dr. Baumann's Exclusive Bionome Skincare offers a full range of treatments and products that can offer improvement and relief.

 

Complete skincare versus incomplete skincare

 

For the above reasons, it is important that skincare be complete. Skincare can only be complete skincare if it gives the skin what it needs. This means that it has to provide the same substances as the skin and the skin's natural skincare cream (the hydrolipid layer) in sufficient quantities: water, essential polyunsaturated fatty acids (vitamin F), phospholipids and ceramids, triglycerides, waxes, cholesterol, squalene, urea, lactates, lactic or citric acid, hyaluronic acid and essential vitamins such as vitamin E, pro-vitamin B5, vitamin A, vitamin C, and vitamin H (biotin).

Good quality skincare
products are a 100% or close copy of the skin's natural protection. Poor quality skincare products have very little similarities with the skin.

 

Skincare products which are not made from these substances will not be complete and will not do what they should. In the long term, the negative effects become apparent in the skin. Compare it with food: you might eat tasty food that you really enjoy, but if it doesn't contain the right ingredients for your body, you will not be as healthy as you could be. You may not see much difference right away, but over time the difference will be very clear. The same is true of skincare products. Right now, you are probably happy with the products you use. But only looking into the ingredients will show you if they really do what they should.

 

If you don't know how to judge or control this, the cosmetic industry will be able to sell you products that are of poor quality. Strong advertising and marketing can make you believe a product is the greatest product in the world. But is it really? Most of the time it is not, and what you have bought is an illusion, even when it feels good on the skin, has great packaging and has a nice, attractive smell (the industry isn't stupid either). But what our skin really needs is the right ingredients, not illusions. If these ingredients are not present, our skin cannot become or remain vital and healthy. It cannot be nourished by illusions.

 

Again: illusions

Unfortunately,
it is not always easy to obtain the correct information to know what you are buying. A lot of cosmetic advertising is not meant to inform you, but to entice you to buy with promises of eternal youth or at least spectacular results.   

A basic knowledge o
f cosmetic ingredients is the best way to protect yourself and your customers. Compare the ingredients on the packaging with the promises of the ads. You will be surprised or maybe even shocked if you do this.  

A wide range of tricks is being used to sell products that
would not sell if consumers had the correct background information:

v  A product is declared to be "hypo allergenic", but in the ingredients you can find the main causes of allergic reactions from cosmetic products, such as fragrances and chemical preservatives.

v  A product is declared to be "natural", but in the ingredients you can find a range of chemical or synthetic substances.

v  On the front of the packaging you will find a very valuable ingredient in large type. Looking at the ingredients list, however, you find that the ingredient is only present in a low concentration or not even there. On the contrary: most other ingredients seem to be very cheap or even harmful substances.

v  Every year there is a lot of advertising boasting new and incredible ingredients that promise to make the skin more beautiful than ever, but the value of these new ingredients for skincare has never been proved.

v  A new product is sold for a high price with a prestigious name, but contains only or primarily very cheap or even harmful substances.

v  A product is said to be 'not tested on animals', implying that it is animal friendly, but it contains ingredients from killed animals.

v  A products claims to be hydrating, but it doesn't contain liposomes. Or it contains the wrong liposomes, or a very small ineffective concentration. Liposomes are the only way to actively hydrate the skin. How can a product without the right liposomes ever be hydrating?  

It is always the same approach: the advertisements encourage us to believe and to have confidence in the product, so that our own critical investigation seems to be unnecessary.  

With th
e information on this website you can make a new start: we would like to help you to learn what your customers’ skin needs and offer you basic dermatological knowledge on common cosmetic ingredients. This will help you to
recognize those ingredients that can harm the skin and those that are beneficial.  

The only way of getting a
proper insight into quality is to learn what the skin needs, and to check if the necessary ingredients are present. One way is simply to try to read and understand the ingredients on the packaging of a product. But there is also a valuable tool on the Internet: the Cosmetic Tester. It judges all products on the basis of the ingredients.

Learn more

 


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