Why should your customer buy a skincare
product at all? Why not
save the money?
No one should buy a product,
especially skincare, unless it offers clear
benefits. Therefore, it is important to ask
of any skincare product what effects and
benefits it offers. What does it do?
Quality skincare products keep the skin in good shape, healthy and beautiful. They improve the skin and its
appearance, reducing as much as possible the visible signs of aging. Good skincare
products do this by
cleaning, protecting, nourishing, hydrating, vitalizing and improving the skin.
These are the basic criteria.
What you need to know is how to
achieve this in the best possible way. You
will only be able to determine this if you have some basic knowledge
about the functioning of the skin (what it needs), and some basic
knowledge about what cosmetic ingredients
can do (how they can satisfy the skin’s needs).
The story of the skin
It is important to keep in mind that in general, our bodies
are perfectly capable of caring for
All we need to do is keep them
in balance and good shape by breathing, moving,
protecting them, keeping them warm and providing them with the right nutrition and hydration.
If we do all this, our healthy bodies will have healthy organs and we will feel good. The skin is in
fact the body’s largest organ. Therefore,
body is in perfect shape and functions well,
the skin will also generally
function well and take care of itself.
How does the body/skin do this? Well, very simply and naturally, by producing its own
skincare! Yes, the body and skin are in fact a cosmetic factory that produces everything necessary for perfect skincare! This is why, when our bodies and skin are functioning well, we feel no need
for cosmetic products – we already have
them for free.
Our skin receives all the 'ingredients' it needs from what we eat and drink, and/or
it produces (or synthesizes) any other necessary substances by means of different metabolic processes in our bodies and skin.
The protective barrier of our skin comprises mainly the different skin layers in which
our skin cells live and finally die to form the most important protective
outer skin layer: the stratum
corneum or horny layer. This layer is
what is visible, and a healthy stratum corneum will feel soft and well hydrated and have
a healthy appearance.
On top of the stratum corneum
the hydrolipid layer which is in fact
our bodies' own natural skincare cream.
It softens, nourishes and protects our skin
in the most natural way. It is the natural -- more or less oily -- substance that you
feel on your skin even if you haven't put on a cream. It has been there since you were growing in your
mother’s womb, in order to protect you from drying out. It has been with you during
your childhood and youth, and it is -- together with a well hydrated stratum corneum -- the main reason why
you didn't get wrinkles at an early age. But
wrinkles will appear on the skin’s
surface when the stratum corneum
is not well hydrated and when the hydrolipid
layer is not complete. These wrinkles can be
reduced if good hydration and
nourishing/protection with the right
substances is provided externally.
'right substances' are well known. It is
important to name them here. From our
nutrition our skin receives the necessary vitamins and essential
polyunsaturated fatty acids. Essential
means here that our skin is not able to
produce them, and that it is thus essential
to get them from an external source like
food or skincare. This is also the reason
that they are sometimes called vitamin F.
The skin cells produce other necessary
lipids, such as phospholipids
and ceramids, that therefore do not need to be provided by
nutrition. These are therefore called non-essential fatty acids -- although they are
essential to the skin. Finally, drinking
enough water will provide hydration.
These substances are also important components of the hydrolipid layer or
Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) on top
of your skin. However, the main source of
this protective and nourishing layer comes
from two other sources: the
uncountable number of sebum glands
and sweat glands that are an
essential part of the
body’s skincare factory.
All creams are formed by
combining two main types of substances: water-soluble and fat-soluble. A good balance
between these two types of components make that a cream is no too oily and not too fluid. Every cosmetics
factory in the world mixes these two types of components in some way.
In doing so, they do what your own skincare factory has done every day since the very early days of
your existence. Sadly, this doesn't necessarily mean that the factories combine
the right ingredients, as we will see presently.
The sebaceous glands produce and
deliver sebaceous lipids in the form
of sebum to the to the NMF. These sebaceous lipids include triglycerides,
waxes, cholesterol, and squalene.
sweat glands provide and deliver
water soluble substances like urea, lactates,
lactic acid, hyaluronic acid and allantoin
to the NMF. The living skin cells in the
epidermis add epidermal lipids
to the NMF.
It is important to see that all these
substances, provided by nutrition,
drinking, cell activity, sebum and sweat
glands, play a crucial role in a healthy
skin and a healthy stratum corneum.
A lack of even one of them can cause severe
skin problems and thus premature aging. Good
food, as well as good skincare, will provide all the necessary
substances. Not providing one or more of these necessary components will have
negative consequences, even if these are not immediately felt, because the skin will not
receive what it needs to stay in good shape.
It is the same with
food. Only after a prolonged lack of essential nutritional components such as vitamins does the body become sick. A
shortage of vitamins leads to a broad range
of severe health problems. A shortage of
vitamins, urea or ceramids in the skin will similarly lead
to skin disorders or pathological dry skin, to name just a few examples.
Therefore, the only good skincare is complete skincare.
Most of the skincare products that are available are very far from being complete. Dr. Baumann's Exclusive Bionome Skincare offers a range of complete products that
provide everything that your and your customers’ skin might need.
When is skincare needed?
There are basically four reasons for using skincare: skin aging, skin
hygiene, skin optimization, and finally skin disorders and imbalances.
Skin aging. Young people tend not to think of using creams, because their skin provides everything in quantities that give full satisfaction. As we age, however,
the situation changes, because the natural
self-sustaining capacities of
our skin gradually diminish. Regrettably, the body’s skincare
factory gradually loses production capacity day by day. This process of aging causes deficiencies that make help from
outside useful. This issue
especially concerns women, which is why they
are the main consumers of skincare products. The average age at which the need for
assistance becomes very clear is around
30-35 for women. Men are normally not as concerned by
The reason for this difference is that the
main lipid (oil) part of the skin's
hydrolipid layer is provided by the sebum
produced in the sebum glands. This sebum
production is controlled by particular sex
hormones. When women grow older, those
hormones gradually reduce their activity to
prepare the body for its non-fertile life.
This process reduces sebum production, with the result being
dry skin (lipid shortage). Men stay fertile
until they are much older, which
is why their sebum production also remains active.
Aging leads to dry skin, and creams for normal to dry skin with a
higher lipid concentration are most
effective in this situation.
Skin hygiene. If we lived as our ancestors did, we probably would
not care too much about how we smelled. If everybody smells bad, no one needs to worry about it! In our modern society, however, we do care about hygiene.
And this has consequences for the skin. The hydrolipid layer on
our skin not only nourishes and protects the skin, but it
also absorbs sweat and dirt. Of course, one could use strong perfumes to hide the
smell this causes, but these days we prefer to simply wash.
When we wash ourselves, what
we are really doing is removing dirty natural skincare
from our faces and
If the cleansing is done well, it normally
causes the feeling of dry skin, because the
hydrolipid layer has been removed. Waiting for an hour or two gives the body’s skincare
factory time to produce
it again. So there is no need to worry. However,
using a light cream for oily skin will
bridge the time between the cleaning and the
reappearance of the natural hydrolipid layer. Using a rich cream for dry skin will probably
be too much in such a situation. As a
general rule any cream should just
complement what the
user’s body naturally produces.
Skin optimization. Until now we have examined the possibilities that
our skin already offers in providing a lot
of what we need. This might give
the impression that this is a perfect
process. Earlier, we stated that:
" if the body is in perfect shape and functions well, the skin will also generally
function well and take care of itself." Regrettably, this is not always the case. Our
bodies and skin are not always perfect. The skin does as much as it can, but all studies show
that the human body and skin are good but in
many ways also imperfect systems, which can
be improved. Vitamins, liposomes and other
essential substances can be provided to the
skin to guarantee important improvements in
protection, nourishing and hydration.
Skin disorders and imbalances. Sometimes
our skin already needs help when we are young, but generally this is only the case in imbalances or illnesses, which often have genetic
origins. This is a very complicated subject for which
a deeper knowledge of dermatology and
genetics is useful, and which is too broad to explain here.
disorders such as acne, psoriasis or eczema, a treatment can be
very useful. Dr. Baumann's Exclusive Bionome Skincare
offers a full range of treatments
and products that can offer improvement and
Complete skincare versus incomplete skincare
For the above reasons, it is important that skincare be
complete. Skincare can only be complete skincare if
it gives the skin what it needs. This means that it has to provide the same
substances as the skin and the skin's natural skincare cream (the hydrolipid layer) in sufficient
quantities: water, essential polyunsaturated fatty acids
(vitamin F), phospholipids and ceramids,
triglycerides, waxes, cholesterol, squalene,
urea, lactates, lactic or citric acid,
hyaluronic acid and essential vitamins such as vitamin E, pro-vitamin B5, vitamin A, vitamin C, and vitamin H (biotin).
Good quality skincare products are a 100% or close copy of the skin's natural
protection. Poor quality skincare products have very little similarities with the skin.
products which are not made from these substances will not be complete and will not do what they should. In the
long term, the negative
effects become apparent in the skin. Compare it with food:
you might eat tasty food that you really
enjoy, but if it doesn't contain the right
ingredients for your body, you will not be
as healthy as you could be. You may not see much difference right away,
but over time the difference will be very clear. The same is true of skincare products.
Right now, you are probably happy with
the products you use. But only looking into the
ingredients will show you if they really do what they should.
If you don't know how to judge or
control this, the cosmetic industry will be able to sell you products
that are of poor quality. Strong advertising
and marketing can make you believe
a product is the greatest product in the world. But is it really? Most of the time it
is not, and what you
have bought is an illusion, even when it feels good on the
skin, has great packaging and has a nice, attractive smell (the
industry isn't stupid either). But what our skin really needs is the right ingredients, not illusions. If these ingredients are not present, our skin cannot become or remain vital and
healthy. It cannot be nourished by illusions.
Unfortunately, it is not always easy to obtain the correct information to know what you are buying. A lot of
cosmetic advertising is not meant to inform
you, but to entice you to
buy with promises of eternal youth or at least spectacular results.
A basic knowledge of cosmetic ingredients
is the best way to protect yourself and your customers. Compare the
ingredients on the packaging with the
promises of the ads. You will be surprised
or maybe even shocked if you do this.
A wide range of tricks
is being used to sell products that would not sell if consumers had the correct
v A product is declared to be "hypo allergenic", but in
the ingredients you can find the main causes of allergic reactions from cosmetic
products, such as fragrances and chemical preservatives.
A product is declared to be "natural", but in the ingredients you can find a range
of chemical or synthetic substances.
v On the front of the packaging you
will find a very valuable ingredient in large type. Looking at the ingredients list, however,
you find that the ingredient is only present in a low concentration
or not even there. On the contrary: most
other ingredients seem to be very cheap or
even harmful substances.
v Every year there is a lot of
advertising boasting new and incredible ingredients that promise to make the skin more beautiful
than ever, but the value of
these new ingredients for skincare has never
v A new product is sold for a high
price with a prestigious name, but contains
only or primarily very cheap or
even harmful substances.
A product is said to be 'not
tested on animals', implying
that it is animal friendly, but it contains
ingredients from killed animals.
A products claims to be hydrating, but it doesn't contain
liposomes. Or it contains the wrong liposomes, or a very
small ineffective concentration. Liposomes
are the only way to actively hydrate the
skin. How can a product without the right
liposomes ever be hydrating?
It is always the same approach:
the advertisements encourage
us to believe and to have confidence in the
product, so that our own critical investigation seems to be unnecessary.
With the information on this website you
can make a new start: we would like to help you to learn what your customers’ skin
needs and offer you basic dermatological knowledge on common cosmetic ingredients. This will help you to
recognize those ingredients
that can harm the skin and those that are beneficial.
The only way of getting
a proper insight
into quality is to learn what the skin needs, and to
check if the necessary ingredients are present. One way is simply to try to read and
understand the ingredients on the packaging
of a product. But there is also a valuable tool on the Internet: the Cosmetic Tester.
It judges all products on the basis of the ingredients.